Good Food News-Rice Bread
Saveur Magazine delves into the thick history and light texture of a rice based loaf that chronicles the fraught food narrative of the southern states.
Rice bread is a historically significant yet obscure loaf that originated in the Carolinas during the colonial days. It is now becoming more well known, in part because of Lionel Vatinet, the master baker and owner of La Farm Bakery in Cary, North Carolina. The rice used in making the loaves is a heirloom varietal called Carolina Gold. This delicate-tasting long-grain strain was the main economic pillar of the pre-Civil War southern states. The rice was picked and the bread was baked by the hands of plantation slaves.
Chef Justin Cherry, the former sous chef at Husk, fell in love with Carolina Gold rice when he started a Sunday bread program at Husk. “It hit the deck of the wood-fired oven at about 515 degrees, immediately shooting out small puffs of steam as I closed the door. I think at that moment, I realized that this is what it’s all about. Three hundred years of history is mounted up in this loaf.”
That history, via this heirloom grain, can now literally be tasted.